Jean Max calls them ‘Events‘, cameo moments that arrive out of nothing, which create a memory much greater than the event itself. There have been quite a few of these, such as the elderly lady in the 1950’s style café who insisted on guiding me onto the correct path; Casa Herminia cooking our freshly picked girolles; the old farmer wearing traditional albarcas (clogs) to avoid the mud.
A pair of ‘albarcas’ left on a farmer’s doorstep‘Events‘ always occur when least expected. We didn’t think anything could follow the beauty of the previous day’s walk up the Hospitales route, but the weather system today created a special kind of magic that took our breath away.
We were not so high, but below us and surrounding us was a layer of thick cloud with occasional treetops peering through, giving the appearance of a tempestuous, rocky sea..
For me, that was an ‘Event‘…. As was the moment we walked bleary-eyed into the small town of Castro Verde the next morning in desperate need of the day’s first coffee. Any mention in a café’s title of ‘Peregrino’ or similar sounds rather touristy, so we walked straight past the ‘Café Camino’.
Fortunately, down a side road was a locals’ café. Jean Max and I walked in… heads turned and one man asked where we were from. Once he’d established there was an Italian with us he was very keen to be introduced to Giovanni, who was dragged inside by the local man who had worked in Italy 45 years ago. We were then made to feel very welcome and when it came to pay our bill, the waitress told us it had already been dealt with, courtesy of our new friend, who just wanted to practice his Italian on Giovanni. A small moment perhaps, but it really set us up for the day.
Every day, the scenery seems to surpass itself, or maybe it’s just me becoming more attuned to the surroundings. Either way, it’s magnificent and makes my heart sing, literally at times with my Brothers in Arms.
- “The road is long, with many a winding turn, That leads us to who knows where…who knows where….. But I’m strong, strong enough to carry him, He ain’t heavy, he’s my brother”
At last, after 11 days of glorious weather, it finally rained. Only for a couple of hours, but enough to draw out the wonderful aromas of the forest. Walking through the eucalyptus trees was like taking a steam vapour bath to clear my airways, it was that strong!
I’d never before properly listened to the sound of the wind in the trees. Of course I’ve heard it countless times, but am now listening to it in an entirely different way. Giovanni explained how his blind grandfather knew exactly where he was in the woods by the sound of the wind rustling through the trees. Except, as I now know, it doesn’t always rustle… for example, the wind blowing through pine trees sounds just like the sea… Every tree has its unique sound!
This Camino is no longer about ‘thinking’… it’s about ‘feeling and ‘being’ – a different state of consciousness altogether. My awareness, my senses and my spiritual connection with the universe are all heightened. It’s not easy to explain, as everybody is at a different stage on their own personal journey… it just so happens that mine is being fast tracked – and it’s a very comfortable state to be in!
Peebeecat 